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Diamond-Grade Construction Calculator

Board and Batten Siding Calculator

Estimate boards, battens, trim, fasteners and total cost for any cedar, pine, cypress, LP SmartSide or James Hardie board-and-batten wall. Modern farmhouse facades, shed walls, accent gables and full two-story sides — all with smart waste, cutouts and install-time forecasting.

6 materials
cedar, pine, cypress, redwood, LP, Hardie
5 presets
shed, gable, house wall, 2-story, farmhouse
4 takeoffs
boards, battens, trim, fasteners
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no signup ever

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1x10 (9.25" actual)

Rot-resistant, dimensionally stable, takes stain or paint beautifully. The premium choice for traditional and modern farmhouse exteriors.

Door & window cutouts

Add openings to subtract their area from the net siding sqft.

10% is typical; bump to 15% for complex cutouts or rough-sawn cedar.

Wall elevation — board & batten pattern

Board 9.25" wide · Batten 2.5" wideamber = board · brown = batten covering joints

Wide boards laid edge-to-edge; narrow battens cover the joints and the two end positions.

Enter your wall sections (or pick a preset) and click Calculate.

Board and Batten: A Scandinavian Idea, a Modern Farmhouse Obsession

Board-and-batten siding is one of the oldest exterior cladding techniques in continuous use. The pattern — wide vertical boards laid edge to edge, with narrow battens nailed over every joint to shed water — shows up on Norwegian stave churches from the 12th century, on Swedish barns painted Falu red, and on early American agricultural buildings from Pennsylvania to Tennessee. It made sense in places where sawmills cut wide planks but pre-fabricated lap siding wasn't yet available; you simply ripped boards to whatever width your tree produced, butted them up, and capped the joints. The result was cheap, weather-tight, easy to repair plank by plank, and visually striking from a hundred yards across an open field.

The technique nearly disappeared in the postwar US suburbs as vinyl and aluminum lap took over, surviving mainly on outbuildings and historic restorations. Then came the modern farmhouse revival of the mid-2010s. HGTV's Fixer Upper, Joanna Gaines's design vocabulary, and a generational appetite for an exterior that felt like the inside of a Brooklyn coffee shop — white, vertical, intentional — turned board and batten into the single most-requested siding pattern on new American homes. Walk through any new-construction neighborhood from Texas to Tennessee to Minnesota and you'll see white LP SmartSide or James Hardie board-and-batten on at least one elevation of half the homes. The cycle is now broadening into "modern moody" — the same vertical rhythm, but in deep black, charcoal, hunter green, and even cedar stained dark for a Scandinavian throwback that closes a 900-year loop on where the style began.

Whether you're cladding a 12-foot shed or a 4,000 sq ft modern farmhouse facade, the material math is the same: count the boards that fit across the wall length (wall length ÷ board width, rounded up), add one batten per board joint plus one at each end, multiply by wall height for linear feet, and add 10% for waste. This calculator does that automatically across multiple walls with door and window cutouts, then translates the linear feet into actual purchased board pieces at 8, 10, 12, 14 or 16 ft lengths and prices them by material — cedar, pine, cypress, redwood, LP SmartSide, or James Hardie fiber cement.

The Formulas

# Net wall area

netSqft = Σ (wallLength × wallHeight) − Σ (cutoutW × cutoutH)

# Boards across the wall length

boardsPerRow = ceil( wallLength × 12 / boardActualWidth )

# Battens (one per joint plus end battens)

battensPerRow = boardsPerRow + 1

# Physical pieces purchased

piecesPerColumn = ceil( wallHeight / boardLength )

boardPieces = boardsPerRow × piecesPerColumn × (1 + waste)

# Trim (corners + frieze + water table)

trimLf = 2 × wallHeight + 2 × wallLength

# Fasteners (per wall)

studRows = ceil( wallHeight × 12 / studSpacing ) + 1

fasteners = (boardsPerRow × studRows × 2) + (battensPerRow × studRows)

Material Comparison — Cedar, LP SmartSide, James Hardie & More

MaterialTypical $/lf boardService lifeMaintenanceBest for
Western Red Cedar$4 – $640 – 60 yrsRe-stain every 5 – 7 yrsPremium homes, mountain, coastal
Primed Pine$1.80 – $3.0020 – 30 yrsRe-paint every 8 – 12 yrsPainted modern farmhouse on a budget
Cypress$4.50 – $6.5050+ yrsOptional finish (silvers naturally)Southeast US, humid climates
Redwood$6 – $950+ yrsRe-seal every 5 – 7 yrsWest Coast accent walls
LP SmartSide$3 – $4.5050 yr warrantyRe-paint every 10 – 12 yrsProduction builders, value-driven jobs
James Hardie$4 – $650+ yrs15 yr ColorPlus, then re-paintFire zones, HOA-spec homes, longevity

How to Install Board and Batten Siding — 5 Steps

  1. Step 1 — Sheathing & WRB. Confirm the sheathing (OSB or plywood) is sound, dry, and nailed off at 6" edges / 12" field. Cover with a continuous water-resistive barrier — Tyvek HomeWrap, Typar MetroWrap, or a self-adhered membrane in storm zones. Tape every seam with the barrier manufacturer's tape, including around openings.
  2. Step 2 — Furring strips (rainscreen). Install 1×4 vertical furring strips 16" or 24" on center over the WRB, aligned with framing. This creates a 3/4" drainage and ventilation gap behind the siding — the single highest-leverage upgrade for siding longevity, especially on vertical patterns. Add insect screen at top and bottom.
  3. Step 3 — Set the boards. Start with a level chalk line near the bottom. Leave 1/4" gap above the foundation and between board edges (for expansion). Drive one stainless ring-shank nail per stud crossing, centered in the board. Pre-drill near the ends to prevent splits. Acclimate boards on-site for 5–7 days before nailing.
  4. Step 4 — Install the battens. Center each batten over the joint between two boards. Drive nails through the batten and into the framing — not into the board edges. One nail per stud crossing is enough. End battens go tight to the corner board for a clean reveal.
  5. Step 5 — Trim, caulk, finish. Install corner boards, frieze, and water table (if any) with the same material as the siding. Caulk all trim-to-siding joints with a high-quality polyurethane or hybrid sealant — never plain silicone, which doesn't accept paint. Finish coat within 30 days for primed materials; sooner in direct sun.

When You'll Reach for This Tool

Spec'ing a modern farmhouse build

Drop in the front wall and front gable, pick James Hardie or LP SmartSide, and you have a defensible material allowance for the bid sheet. Cross-check with our Siding Material Calculator for whole-house totals.

Comparing board-and-batten to clapboard

Get the board-and-batten estimate here, then plug the same wall area into our Clapboard Siding Calculator to A/B test material count and labor hours.

Re-siding over old vinyl

If you're tearing off vinyl and going vertical, this tool gives you the new board-and-batten order. Use the Vinyl Siding Calculator to size what's coming off.

Pricing the stain or paint

Once you have linear feet, jump to our Fence & Siding Stain Calculator to size the gallons of stain or paint at one or two coats.

Pro Tips from the Field

  • Always use stainless or hot-dip galvanized fasteners with cedar and redwood. Tannins in both species corrode plain steel within months and bleed black streaks down the wall. Stainless ring-shank is best; hot-dip galvanized ring-shank is acceptable and cheaper. Never use electroplated, never use pneumatic brads, never use drywall screws.
  • Leave a 1/4" gap at the bottom and 1/8" between boards. Boards expand and contract with humidity. A tight installation in November can buckle in July. Use plastic shims or a story stick to keep the gap consistent.
  • Prime or seal end-grain before installing. The end grain absorbs water 20× faster than the face. Seal cut ends with the same primer you used on the field, or with a dedicated end-grain sealer like Anchorseal. This alone adds 5–10 years to a cedar installation.
  • Acclimate boards on site for at least 5 days. Stack flat on stickers (1×2 spacers every 24") in a covered, dry location. The wood reaches equilibrium with your local humidity, which means it stops moving once it's on the wall. Skipping this step is the single biggest cause of warranty calls in year two.
  • Nail boards in the center, never both edges. Boards need to expand and contract; pinning both edges guarantees a split within two seasons. One nail per stud, dead-center, head flush — not driven below the surface.
  • Don't skimp on the rainscreen. Vertical siding channels water faster than horizontal lap, and a back-ventilated wall is 5–10× more forgiving of inevitable small leaks. 3/4" furring strips, top and bottom vent screens, and continuous WRB are non-negotiable on quality work.

Board and Batten Siding Calculator FAQs

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Trusted by Siding Contractors, Builders & Homeowners

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Based on 2,600 reviews

We install 12,000 sq ft of board and batten a month, mostly cedar and LP SmartSide. This calculator hits within 4% of our actual orders every time, and the per-wall breakdown saves a junior estimator about two hours per bid.

T
Travis Beauchamp
Owner, Beauchamp Exteriors — Asheville, NC

Modern farmhouse is 60% of our spec sheet right now. I use this for every Hardie board-and-batten facade — the cutout subtraction for our standard window package matches the architect drawings on the first try.

H
Hannah Lindberg
Production Builder, Twin Cities Homes — Minneapolis, MN

Redid our shed and back gable in cypress board and batten. The waste factor and fastener count saved a second trip to the lumberyard. Install time estimate was conservative but realistic — took me two weekends on the shed exactly as predicted.

D
Diego Ramirez
Homeowner / DIY Renovator — Austin, TX

I spec board and batten on about a third of my custom homes. Having a clean cost estimator I can share with clients during the schematic phase — broken out by board, batten, trim, and fastener — is exactly the transparency the conversation needs.

S
Sarah Kowalski
Architect, Coastal Studio — Portsmouth, NH

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